Bhutan is the last great Himalayan kingdom. It is a remote land of myth and legend, shrouded in mystery and home to ancient teachings.

It is the only country to officially adopt Gross National Happiness instead of Gross Domestic Product (GDP) as the main development indicator. The government even set up a Ministry of Happiness.

It is a country ruled by a monarch who had freely given up his power to usher in democracy. A place where teachers are the highest-paid civil servants and the Prime Minister spends his weekends working as a surgeon.

And it is said to be the last remaining “Shangri-La” on Earth.

Can it all be real?

In July 2019, I decided to travel to Bhutan to see for myself.

This is my trip in photos.

There are flights from only 5 countries: Nepal, India, Bangladesh, Thailand and Singapore.

All flights arrive at Paro International Airport, said by some to be the most dangerous landing in the world.

But first, let's get this out of the way...

Bhutan is expensive.

Bhutan has the highest tourist fee of anywhere in the world.

The country prides itself on a sustainable approach to tourism. They focus on attracting high-end visitors and environmentally responsible tour operations.

To protect Bhutan’s environment and culture, the government placed a minimum fee of $250 per person per day for tourists.

But it can be a good value. The fee covers everything – hotels, meals, private transport, a driver and an official guide are all provided.

No cramming into a tourist bus with 50 other people. You could sightsee for 6 hours a day, or 16 hours a day – whatever you prefer.

The private tour allows you to do whatever you want on your own schedule.

Want to get a beer with your guide? Sure.

Interested in milking a cow? I did that.

It's also worth noting that one-third of the tourist fee goes directly towards government programs providing free education and healthcare.

From Paro airport, it's 1.5 hours to the Bhutan capital of Thimphu.

Bhutan has preserved its rich cultural identity throughout years of isolation. Tourism was only allowed less than four decades ago.

The country is undeveloped in an intentional way. The people like to keep their traditional Buddhist lifestyles and choose to modernize minimally.

There are no traffic lights in the entire country. And also no Starbucks, no KFCs, and no McDonald's.

By royal decree, all buildings must be constructed in traditional Bhutanese architecture. And that includes homes, hospitals, banks, and even airports.

Bhutanese wear their national dress proudly. The male Gho and female Kira dresses are always worn for school, work, and weddings.

And the national sport? Archery, of course. Competitions are held throughout the country at most weekends.

From Thimphu, we drove 3 hours to the old capital of Punakha.

We stopped by a small village called Sopsokha where there's a certain... phallic obsession.

Here, you'll find homes covered with paintings of penises.

In Bhutan, even government offices display dildos in the corridor.

The country is dotted with magnificent dzongs. Within these ancient fortresses are temples and government offices.

In the 1400s, a Bhutanese monk built 58 of these spectacular iron chain bridges.

In a world looking for new ideas, Bhutan is already called the poster child of sustainable development.

Bhutan's constitution specifies that at least 60% of the country must remain forested, making it the only country in the world that absorbs more carbon than it emits.

In 2015, Bhutan set a new world record by planting 50,000 trees in just one hour. The country then celebrated their newborn Prince by planting another 108,000 trees.

It’s already the world’s only carbon-negative country and is set to become the first fully organic nation by 2020.

Finally, we made it back to Paro.

Paro Taktsang is the most recognized and visited monument in Bhutan. The temple was built in 1692 and has earned the nickname, Tiger's Nest.

For my last night in Bhutan, I got to stay at the incredible COMO Uma Paro.

The intimate, 29-room resort offers daily yoga sessions and the best spa massage I've had in my life.

Epilogue

Simply put, Bhutan is the most unspoiled country I’ve been to.

The government has allowed tourism to provide the highest value possible, without having to deal with millions of tourists. Bhutan wouldn’t be the same if it were overcrowded with tourists.

Villagers lead a simple existence without the frills of modern life. You'll find semi-nomadic herders who depend on their yaks for meat, cheese, clothing and more.

Walking around town, no one honks at you and everyone is at peace. You can feel it.

Above all, there's the Bhutan royal family...

They look like real life Disney characters.

The King of Bhutan is the Elvis Presley of Asia. Queen Jetsun Pema is the Queen of Bhutan. Her title translates literally to the Dragon Queen.

If it’s not "Shangri-La", it’s as close as it gets.

Over the past few years, I've spent an insensible amount of time seeing the world by train. I've traveled thousands of miles across USA, Russia, Canada & Australia. I'm always on the lookout for my next big train journey until a realization hit me the other day...

I've never explored my own country by train.

Singapore is one of the smallest countries in the world. Measuring 31 miles across, the cross-country journey can be done either as really long marathon or a short train ride. The Singapore MRT is one of the most cost-efficient public transport networks in the world and a coast-to-coast journey costs just US$1.54.

On 1st April 2019, I decided to take the train across Singapore.

This is my trip in iPhone photos.

I started my journey at Tuas Link. The station looks like one of those 200-year-old grand railway stations. Except, it is 2 years old.

The station lies so far west that it's within walking distance to the border with Malaysia.

I boarded the train at lunchtime with people who were either just laid off or really late for work.

In the far west of the country, Singapore hides its heavy industry.

Soon, we entered the heartlands of Singapore — government-subsidized public housing which 82% of the people live in.

Between the stations of Chinese Gardens and Lakeside, there is a Chinese garden by a lakeside.

You can stop off here to visit the locally-famous gardens. But it is better not to because it is a scorching 35°C / 95°F outside.

As the train enters the Central Area, it goes underground and there is no view. Most people either contemplate in silence or play Angry Birds, as seen here.

Above ground, there are views like this that we won't get to see.

The train emerges from underground and passes over the Kallang River, with grand views of the Singapore Sports Hub, a gargantuan stadium used more for Maroon 5 concerts than sporting events.

The stadium is the world’s largest free spanning dome, which I think it's special because not many things in this country are free.

The remainder of the journey was mostly public housing. Did I mention that 82% of the country lives in one?

Finally, I arrived at a place called Changi Airport S🔵pore on the map. It's the end of line and about as far east as you can go, before getting arrested for trespassing.

There's a feeling of elation among passengers. Not because they've crossed the country like me, but mostly because they are flying off to their vacations.

Changi Airport is an incredible destination. It's won Airport of the Year for seven consecutive years from 2013 to 2019.

And in a few weeks, it's only getting better. A development project called Jewel Changi Airport is opening on 17 April, 2019.

When it opens, it will be absolutely ridiculous. And I'm not paid to say that. Just look at it.

It's almost as if this country is the same one from Crazy Rich Asians.

But finally I boarded the train for my journey home. Another 1.5 hours.

Australia’s most iconic train journey, The Ghan, stretches from coast to coast across the vast outback. Traveling through the heart of Australia, it follows the route taken 150 years ago by early Afghan cameleers.

The Australian Outback is one of the most unique and surreal places on Earth. Imagine a land of bright red earth as far as the eye can see, dotted with spindly eucalyptus and gum trees. You get a real sense of the sheer vastness at ground level by train which you simply don't get on a plane.

Considered one of the greatest rail journeys in the world, The Ghan crosses the country from cultured Adelaide to the croc-filled creeks of Darwin. There is no better way to see the remote outback than by enjoying the comforts of The Ghan to take you there. Legendary and luxurious, it’s Australia’s version of the Orient Express.

In November 2018, I traveled across Australia on The Ghan.

This is my trip in photos.

Originally dubbed the Afghan Express, the train was named after the pioneering Afghanistan cameleers who explored the outback.

Australia is a huge country. It is comparable in size to the United States even though it has less than 10% the population.

So it's fitting that The Ghan is one of the longest passenger trains in the world at one kilometer long.

It takes 54 hours to travel the 2,979 kilometers (1,851 miles). Along the way, you stop off and explore outback towns.

The two red locomotives have 4400-horsepower diesel engines which cost $100,000 to operate. Add that to $70,000 of fees to use the rail tracks and $40,000 in maintenance fees, all these mean one thing...

The Ghan is an expensive journey.

There's no roughing it on The Ghan. This is a luxury train that goes out of its way to spoil, with all meals and tours included in the price. Over the course of the 3-day journey, staff onboard will make 1,300 beds, serve 100 kg of barramundi and cook more than 3,000 eggs.

Day 1

Darwin to Katherine

My journey began from Darwin, Australia's northernmost city.

All passengers travel in private cabins that are designed to be a sofa by day and bed by night. Bathrooms are en suite.

The Outback Explorer Lounge has the best view and the perfect place to meet with other transcontinental travelers.

But the best thing is the all-inclusive wine and beer.

Yep, you read that right. Word got around pretty quick.

Just outside Darwin, there were towers of termite mounds — cleverly built on a north-south axis to avoid the sun's rays.

Soon, it was time for lunch in the Queen Adelaide restaurant car.

The train is a social experience where you sit with different guests every meal.

The food served are local delicacies of the region you're traveling through. As we were in the tropical Northern Territory, I had buffalo curry.

The menus are excellent 3-course meals, with wine included.

The train arrives in the early afternoon at Katherine.

Known as the place where the tropics meet the outback, guests are given a choice of tours, all included with the train.

I went with a cruise down the Nitmiluk Gorge. Other options include seeing ancient indigenous rock art or a helicopter flight (with extra costs).

Nitmiluk Gorge is known for its towering sandstone cliffs and saltwater crocodiles. These are the largest reptiles in the world.

You'll be back on board in the late afternoon to replenish the alcoholic fluids in your system.

Soon, it was time for dinner. I chose a sumptuous barramundi, a fish famously caught in the Northern Territory.

I was treated to a sunset so sublime, I started to wonder if the 15 glasses of wine I had was too much.

While at dinner, the cabin is miraculously converted into comfortable beds. My head barely hit the pillow before the rhythm and movement of the train rocked me to sleep. Or maybe it was the wine.

Day 2

Katherine to Alice Springs to Manguri

When I woke up in the morning, it seemed like someone had flipped the TV channel in the window.

I was greeted by a spectacular view — parched red desert as far as the eye can see.

I discovered that we've entered the Australia of my imagination: the Outback.

As a breakfast of Eggs Benedict and Barramundi is served, your bed is converted back to a sofa by the hospitality staff.

We arrived at Alice Springs.

At the heart of Australia and 1,500 kilometers from the nearest major city, it's the definitive outback town.

The town lies behind the MacDonnell Ranges. From a distance, it looks as though a giant angle-grinder went through the mountain.

I took a tour to visit the Simpsons Gap, an incredible gorge carved out of the rock by water flowing... in the desert.

I wanted to visit Uluru, the largest monolith in the world. But it's some 400 kilometers southwest of Alice Springs—the outback is a big place—and requires a one-hour flight with extra cost.

Back on board for lunch, I decided to adopt an organic, desert-to-table, locally-sourced diet. So I went with the Kangaroo steak.

While guests sit back in the lounge, sipping glasses of chilled wine, the sun-scorched desert whizzes by outside.

Anyone unfortunate enough to be stranded out here would have grim prospects — but most travelers on The Ghan never give the matter a second thought.

After you’ve been aboard the Ghan for a while, you start to feel as if the train is stationary, and it’s the landscape in windows that’s on the move.

If you've ever wondered what the Middle of Nowhere looks like, this is it. It's very dry in this vastness—better have another beer...

It looks extraterrestrial—blue sky and orange earth—like taking a train across the surface of Mars.

A few hours later, we crossed into South Australia, the driest state in the driest continent in the world.

Another unexpected feature of this vast landscape is the Dingo Fence, a 5,614 km long fence erected in the 1880s (the distance from London to New York). It's the longest fence in the world–despite objections from the Great Wall of China—and built to keep dingoes out.

The train makes for a good time to reflect and write.

That evening, we went through a sandstorm and followed by a thunderstorm.

On some trips, the train will stop at the remote outpost of Manguri. Far away from any city lights, you will witness the Milky Way as you've never seen before.

Day 3

Manguri to Adelaide

In the morning I was greeted with views of the Flinders Ranges over breakfast, on time for a late-morning arrival in Adelaide.

The train chugs past sheep farms and vineyards, eventually rolling into the suburbs. We've arrived in civilization!

The train finally pulls into the pleasant and modern city of Adelaide, capital of South Australia.

I've just crossed a continent!

Over 3 days, I've fallen in love with the rhythm of the train and the endlessness of the desert, speeding across Australia on one of the world’s great train journeys.

There's no better way to celebrate the journey than to see the ocean along the Great Ocean Road.

Epilogue

In 1862, explorer John McDouall Stuart took 14 months to complete the journey that The Ghan covers in 3 days. By the end, he was half-blind, suffering from scurvy and barely capable of walking. The Ghan's passengers, by contrast, emerge at Adelaide rested and well-fed.

The Australian Outback is one of the most spectacular wildernesses in the world, and The Ghan is the most comfortable way to see it. It isn't cheap or fast, but the journey through the vast, flat expanse of the red center is unforgettable.

Traversing the full length of Australia by rail captures the diversity of landscapes, climates, wildlife, and flavors that define the world's largest island. To truly experience and fully appreciate the essence of Australia, you need to visit its red heart. You'll get a comprehension of the profound size of Australia that you simply can’t fathom while sitting on Bondi Beach.

Ah yes, the one million star hotel.

You’ll find Fogo Island Inn off the wild and rugged coast of Newfoundland. Windswept, rocky and remote, Fogo Island is often described by the locals as ‘far away from far away’.

The decidedly 21st-century hotel has the most unexpected setting: a quiet 18th-century fishing village that almost seems removed from the modern world.

The hotel itself is a gorgeous building that juts out in juxtaposition to the rocky outcroppings of the landscape.

Looking out at the wind-whipped North Atlantic from Fogo Island, you feel like you’re on the end of the world: just you, maybe some icebergs, and utter silence.

So perhaps it's not surprising that the Flat Earth Society believes that Fogo Island is one of the four corners of the Earth.

As you'd expect, staying at the Fogo Island Inn isn't cheap at all. A night at the inn is definitely a splurge. Rates start at about C$1,975 a night, with a two-night minimum (and three-night from June to September).

The hotel includes three fine-dining meals a day and many activities, which could make the price tag worth it. To say my expectations were high is like saying icebergs are kind of cold.

In September 2017, I traveled across Canada to Newfoundland...

So I decided to book a stay at the Fogo Island Inn.

This is my trip in photos.

It's hard to understate how remote Fogo Island is.

Newfoundland sits off the east coast of Canada. It's so far east that it has its own time zone—a half an hour later than anywhere else in North America.

The hotel is located on an island off an island, perched far out into the Atlantic Ocean.

It takes 3 flights, 1 car rental, and 1 ferry to get there if you live in nearby USA.

Flights will get you only as far as Gander. From there, it's still 3 hours by rental car & ferry to the hotel. Alternatively, you can take a helicopter for $1,700 one-way.

There are no signs that lead to Fogo Island Inn. It just appears out of nowhere and it's unlike anything I’ve ever seen.

The setting is exceptionally breathtaking. The hotel sits on a rock that looks over nothing but miles of the Atlantic Ocean.

No matter how many photographs you've seen of the hotel, you can’t anticipate the warmth that greets you as you walk in.

The moment I stepped inside, the reception already knew my name.

Fogo Island Inn feels more like a home, instead of a hotel.

There are a total of 29 rooms, so the inn never feels crowded.

The rooms were furnished using only natural materials such as wood, cotton, and linen. The only plastic is the telephone.

All rooms come with floor-to-ceiling ocean views. The furniture was custom made by local Fogo Island woodworkers.

By virtue of their geographic isolation, Fogo Islanders have been building their own furniture, boats, and houses by hand since the late 1600s. In keeping with this tradition, nearly all of the furniture inside the Fogo Island Inn were made on the island.

The rooms are also decorated with fabrics and quilts handmade by local artisans.

The staff pointed out who had made my blanket, and in what year.

More incredibly, no two rooms at the Fogo Island Inn are decorated the same. So they all have different wallpaper, blankets, pillows, etc.

Soon, it was my favorite time of the day — lunch.

One of the inn's most iconic spaces is the dining room, with massive floor-to-ceiling windows over 20 feet high.

Depending on the season, you can watch icebergs bobbing in the waves or whales breaching offshore from your dining table.

Fogo Island Inn is an all-inclusive hotel, which means that all meals, snacks, and non-alcoholic beverages are included in the cost.

In keeping with the sustainable theme, it’s all about local, organic and seasonal food at Fogo Island. Everything here is made in-house, from the bread to the mustard.

While the food at Fogo Island Inn is fabulous, the service was even better. You never had to sign a bill (even if you had alcohol). You never had to provide your room number. They remembered your name, coffee and tea preferences, and all your dietary restrictions.

I should also mention that the hotel specifically discourages tipping of any sort.

I decided to have the cod chowder, after learning that cod fish is a quintessential part of Fogo Island.

I decided to adopt a cod diet and also had the... cod pot cod.

And I pretty much inhaled the food.

Shortly after, I was introduced to the activities coordinator.

She also pointed out the board with some of the activities available and told me to ask her if I wanted more ideas of things to do.

Because of its exposure, Fogo Island experiences 7 different seasons.

From March to June, the inn offers a front-row seat to massive icebergs heading down from Greenland (the very same route taken by the big fella that sank the Titanic).

In the summer season from June to August, visitors can go whale-watching and fishing on boats.

I visited in September during berry season, when one can wander the hills and pick wild berries to munch on.

All the hotel’s activities aim to be as authentic as possible.

There was also a cinema in the hotel with shows a few times a day. Occasionally, the owner of the hotel shows up to give a talk.

As it turns out, I hit the jackpot and she was there on the same day.

Much of the press has been focused on the inn’s unique design and its remote location, but the story of how and why Fogo Island Inn was developed in the first place is equally amazing.

It is the dream of visionary Canadian tech entrepreneur Zita Cobb. The daughter of an illiterate fisherman, she was born on Fogo Island, left the island to study and made millions of dollars in fiber optics.

Zita decided that she wanted to go back home. By the time she returned, her island was in dire straits.

For over 200 years, Fogo Island had been a fishing economy relying on cod. Decades of international overfishing brought the cod to the brink of extinction.

Zita came up with a daring idea to build an inn as a way to save one of Canada’s oldest rural cultures.

To that end, she set about building a luxury hotel on the most barren headland. Building the inn cost $41 million. Locals thought she was mad.

Zita wanted to revive the island as a cultural destination. She designed the hotel to resemble a traditional fishing hut built on stilts.

The inn was conceived as a social enterprise to support the community on the island. A business that belongs to the local people — by providing jobs and funneling all surplus profits back into Fogo Island.

As such, everything from the furniture to the quilts was made by members of the community.

She threw out the hospitality textbook and the result is pretty amazing. The staff doesn't greet with a script—just genuine warmth and affection. I was addressed as 'Derek' and not 'Mr. Low'. You are not a customer of the inn, but a guest of the island.

Zita also pioneered the economic nutrition label.

Similar to food nutrition labels, the information provided shows how the money you spend is distributed.

As Zita would tell me after her talk, "Many luxury properties have a charitable foundation. Our charitable foundation has a luxury Inn."

At the same time, Fogo Island Inn has picked up just about every award and accolade on this planet.

Travel + Leisure recently awarded it the Best Resort Hotel in Canada for the second consecutive year. Fogo Island Inn was also named Top Hotel in Canada by Condé Nast Traveler in both 2017 and 2018. Fogo Island Inn has also made Elite Traveler's list of the Top 100 Hotels in the World in 2018.

In addition to the inn, Zita also built four artist studios around the island.

The studios are bold geometric structures that stand in contrast to the harsh natural environment. The studios are all elevated and oriented towards the sea to provide the artist with a feeling of being unobstructed and unbound.

Artists from around the world come here to live in residence, work, and exhibit their work at the inn.

That evening, I had dinner with the most beautiful sunset.

I started to appreciate the genius of Zita’s revolutionary business project which revived a dying local economy.

I pondered how such a hospitality model could transform communities all over the world.

After dinner, you can ask a staff member to prepare a basket for s’mores and head outside for a campfire and stargazing.

Later that night, I sat alone in the lobby to catch up on work. A staff member came up to me and said, "I saw you were working late. So I made you some coffee."

The next morning, I woke up to another pleasant surprise.

The inn offers what they call a 'daybreak basket'.

At 6 AM, they put a basket stocked with coffee, tea, freshly baked pastries outside your door. I've never seen this done before at any other luxury hotel.

You can also head on down for a second round of breakfast at the dining room. Which I did, of course.

But the best part was how I was made to feel at home: all guests receive a free island orientation, where you're paired with a local who shows you around the island.

After all, there is no better way to learn about a place than to hear about it from someone who has spent their entire life there. This tour can take one hour, six hours, or whatever you’d like, really.

I got into an SUV with Roy Dwyer, my community host, who drove me around and introduced me to the life on the island.

Roy is an author, poet and, of course, a fisherman. As he drove me around the island, it was cool to see him waving to everyone.

Tranquil and remote, Fogo Island has 11 communities where life focused on fishing has not changed much since the 18th century.

The island can be disorientating at first. Everyday conveniences are not close at hand. It's quiet—no movie theaters or shopping districts. Time is nearly suspended.

The locals have always sustained themselves from the resources of the sea and have developed a vibrant culture with a strong community.

Roy's positive attitude was heartwarming and hearing about his life on the island was fascinating.

I decided to show Roy a photo I saw on the internet. He looked at it and said, "Oh, that's my grandfather's house."

He brought me to Brimstone Head, a massive rock jutting out of the island. The Flat Earth Society believes this spot is one of the four corners of the Earth.

By the time we returned, I knew all about Roy's family, how they fished, and the unique history and architecture of the island.

On the day of my departure, they drove me to my car. It was already in line for the ferry.

It turns out that the valet parked my car in the line the night before. There are limited vehicle spots and they wanted to make sure that I didn't miss the boat.

It was almost noon and I was getting hungry. In my car seat, they had left me a paper bag.

Inside it, they'd made me an "Until Soon" Sandwich. I inhaled that too.

Epilogue

This appears on the Fogo Island Inn's website.

And it really does sum up how you'd feel at Fogo Island Inn.

For me, the experience of visiting Fogo Island felt transformative. The scenery was great, but even more so than that, the people stood out most. They all made me feel like I was a guest in their home, rather than at a hotel.

As I departed the island, the staff gave me a hug and I felt genuinely sad to leave. I asked him if there were other guests who felt the same.

"Some of our guests cried as they left," he said.

Fogo Island Inn isn't glitzy. There’s no spa, no pool, and no nightlife. It’s difficult to get to. It’s expensive. Not to mention it’s rather desolate. The weather can be tough, depending on when you go.

But Fogo Island Inn showcases a groundbreaking new style of luxury travel where even the most spoiled tourists would agree is extraordinary. It's heartwarming comfort without a whisper of pretension.

It’s proper feel-good stuff. And there’s only one place where I've experienced it: right here at the end of the earth.

Come soon before the secret is out.

In the heart of Sri Lanka, you'll find one of the world's most scenic train trips. The train from Kandy to Ella is a beautiful 7-hour ride through lush tea plantations, rolling rice fields, and endless mountain views. Incredibly, it's also one of the world's best travel bargains—the entire journey costs just 73 cents.

Originally built in 1864 by the colonial British to transport tea from the hills to the capital city, the railway has since become a super affordable way to see the picturesque countryside. Today, the 94-mile train ride is the highlight of any visit to Sri Lanka.

One of many unforgettable things about the scenery is the intensity and variety of the color green. Everything here is green and lush, and much of the region is carpeted with the glowing green of the tea plantations. Tea needs a warm climate, altitude and sloping terrain to grow—a perfect description of the Hill Country—and today the region is virtually one big tea plantation.

In July 2018, I traveled through Sri Lanka to see it.

This is my trip in pictures.

The journey will take you through Sri Lanka's Hill Country, a region that produces one of the best teas in the world: the Ceylon tea.

The train travels along cliff sides, through terraced plantations, and pass cascading waterfalls on its way to the mountainous town of Ella.

While the entire train ride takes only 7 hours, I highly recommend getting off at stops along the way to explore the region.

The journey boasts beautiful landscapes and tells tales of Sri Lanka’s storied colonial British history.

It wasn't all that long ago that Sri Lanka's Hill Country was largely wild and jungle-clad mountains. But then along came the British who felt in need of a nice cup of tea. So they chopped down all the jungle and turned the Hill Country into one giant tea estate. And you know what? The result is stunning.

Part 1

Kandy to Nuwara Eliya

4 hours

I started my journey in Kandy, which served as the capital of the last Sinhalese kingdom.

I arrived at the train station to embark on what's quite easily the world's cheapest and most beautiful train trip.

A ticket from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya costs just 80 LKR or $0.47.

The train schedule was provided with timings to the exact minute.

I waited for the 10:26 train which arrived promptly at uh, 11:30-ish.

So I boarded the train with approximately one million other backpackers with elephant pants.

All the seats onboard were quickly occupied. With no other choice, I found an empty standing room just by the edge of the train door.

I shared my standing room with a friendly Pakistani man. Over the course of the next several hours, we quickly became friends.

The train is famously known for allowing tourists to hang out from the sides... while moving at full speed.

I wanted to replicate that Instagram photo, but my Pakistani friend was an unwilling participant.

Of course, there are hazards by the tracks which can potentially kill you.

Oh, and the train also goes through 43 tunnels.

The first major stop is the town of Hatton. Some people got off here to visit Adam's Peak, a mountain known for a sacred footprint at the summit believed to be that of Buddha's or Adam's.

For over a thousand years, pilgrims have hiked up Adam's Peak to be rewarded by a perfect sunrise.

After Hatton, the train continues to Nanu-Oya. I stopped off here to visit the nearby town of Nuwara Eliya, a colonial hill station known as "Little England".

Nuwara Eliya still keeps the atmosphere of a misplaced British village. The colonial bungalows, racecourse, and rose gardens all somehow seem more British than Britain itself.

Even the cool and wet climate is decidedly British.

It's worth rising early to hike through Horton Plains National Park, an undulating plateau covered by wild grasslands and misty lakes.

The plateau comes to a sudden end at World’s End, a stunning escarpment that drops almost straight down for 880m.

Part 2

Nuwara Eliya to Haputale

1.5 hours

Back onboard the train, I was all smiles and excited.

The ride from Nanu-Oya to Haputale is widely considered the most scenic part of the journey.

However, uh...

I seemed to have boarded the most unspectacular train ride in the world.

I was starting to suspect that the local tourism board may have oversold the scenery of the train trip.

But after some time, there was a glimmer of hope...

The fog was quickly dissipating.

And within minutes, the scenery finally came into view.

I was treated to a view so sublime, I wondered if I was dreaming it.

All these photos were shot straight out of the moving train.

As we continued to climb past 4,000 feet, the vistas opened up to reveal terrace after terrace of tea plantations.

The train rattles alongside endless green carpets of tea bushes.

You get views that look like the Windows XP wallpaper.

The train pulls into Haputale, a largely Tamil town that clings to a long, narrow mountain ridge.

Haputale turned out to be my favorite place in all of Sri Lanka, with breathtaking views and a relaxing vibe unspoiled by tourists.

While you're there, you can spot tea pickers in the hillside.

Tea largely still being harvested by hand by Tamils whose forefathers were brought from India by the British to work in the tea estates.

You can visit a tea plantation to see how the world's favorite cuppa is produced. I visited the Dambatenne Tea Factory, built in 1890 by Sir Thomas Lipton (yes, that Lipton).

You can learn the processes involved in the production of tea. Some of the equipment in use is almost a century old.

While you're there, you can also visit Lipton's Seat, one of the most impressive viewpoints. Sir Thomas Lipton used to survey his burgeoning empire from here.

Part 3

Haputale to Ella

1 hour

The final leg of the journey was a short 1-hour ride to Ella.

The train continues its way winding around the hill country.

The train arrives at Ella, a decades-old backpackers' paradise that's been getting more popular lately.

It's the final stop! You can treat yourself to 98 Acres Resort & Spa, a luxury boutique hotel set amidst the lush green hills.

If you follow the tracks for half an hour, you will reach the Nine Arch Bridge, a spectacular 30-meter high bridge constructed with stone.

You can walk across it to a hilltop cafe and wait for the train to pass while you sip a nice cup of tea.

At sunrise, hike up Little Adam's Peak for some of the best views in the country.

Epilogue

I’ve dreamed of this train journey for so long and hands down it was one of the most scenic train journeys I've ever been on. It's incredible how much adventure and sights are packed along the route of a short 7-hour train ride.

To put it in perspective: I had a private car and a driver for this trip. I asked him to take a few days off and meet me in Ella, so I could experience the train journey. And guess what? It was absolutely worth it.

The train isn't a showcase of speed or high technology. It isn't a tourist trap. You will see the real Sri Lanka as the train rattles pass indigenous villages, buffalo-peppered farms, and waving kids running alongside the train. It's a classic journey that deserves a place on any traveler's bucket list.

How much did it cost me?

Perhaps the single most amazing part of the journey was the price—I paid just $0.73.

While it's tempting to buy a 1st class ticket when it's so cheap, it's far better to travel in 2nd or 3rd class. It's a much more authentic experience and better for taking photos as the windows and doors fully open.

And don't worry if you can't find a seat. You can also sit with your feet dangling out of the door and you'll have the most incredible view.

The 4,000-mile train journey across Canada is one of the world's greatest travel experiences. The spectacular coast-to-coast trip offers some of the most breathtaking scenery found anywhere in the world. And the best part? You can travel across the country for just $558.

Visiting all of Canada in one trip is a massive undertaking. Canada is the second largest country in the world, spanning an astounding 4 million square miles and 6 time zones. Over 6,350 kilometers (3,946 miles) separate Vancouver from Halifax — about the same distance separating London and New Delhi.

Riding the rails from the Pacific to the Atlantic offers an unparalleled way to see the country. From the stunning beauty of the Canadian Rockies and the vast expanse of the prairie grasslands, you’ll experience a portrait of the geographic diversity that is so uniquely Canadian.

railpictures.net

flickr.com

readersdigest.ca

In August 2017, I traveled on the Trans-Canadian railway.

This is my trip in pictures.

In 1955, the trans-continental train debuted and it was called The Canadian. It became Canada's flagship train and showcased a prime example of railway style.

Amazingly, little has changed since then. The original 1955-built stainless-steel carriages are still being used today, making this train a real classic.

In fact, the train is so iconic that it’s featured on Canada’s $10 bill.

bankofcanadamuseum.ca

The journey stretches 3,946 miles across Canada and takes as little as 5 days — or longer if you make stops along the way.

You'll need 3 trains to travel from coast to coast — The Canadian from Vancouver to Toronto, The Corridor from Toronto to Montréal, and The Océan from Montréal to Halifax.

I started my journey from Vancouver's Pacific Central station. At 8:30 pm, I boarded The Canadian to begin my journey across Canada.

Day 1

Vancouver to Jasper

18.5 hours

The train departs from Vancouver at night, so travelers have to wait until the next morning to enjoy the scenery.

I found an empty domed observation car. Under the massive panoramic windows, I fell asleep under a sky full of stars.

The next morning, I woke up to spectacular sunrise shining into the observation car.

As the train climbed into the mountains, it soon becomes clear why the train only departed late at night.

In 2008, the train timetable was changed to show more of the Rockies in daylight. I don't think anyone complained.

I figured it was a good time for breakfast. Freshly cooked meals can be ordered at the onboard cafe and restaurant.

As you can probably guess by now... I'm doing the entire journey on the cheapest ticket: Economy class.

calculatedtraveller.com

Surprisingly, economy class is pretty comfortable. You can often find 4 adjacent seats and convert them into your own double bed.

travel4wildlife.com

You'll be spending most of the time in the beautiful Skyline dome car anyway.

Of course, there are upper classes of travel available including sleeper cabins.

In Prestige class, you get a much nicer Panorama dome car.

reckontalk.com

And also a much nicer bedroom with a private toilet and shower.

neseborek.com

You also can visit the Park car, The Canadian's signature car, to socialize and enjoy free wine tastings, coffee, and live music.

ninjajournalist.com

The restaurant car has full-service dining and all meals are included.

canada.jp

Meanwhile... I settled back into the reality of economy class.

One of the prettiest sights is Pyramid Falls, which cascades down 300 feet (91 m) right next to the train.

At 12,972 feet (3,954 m), Mount Robson is the tallest mountain in the Canadian Rockies. The mountain often makes its own weather and can only be seen clearly fewer than 20 days a year.

notabletravels.com

As the train approaches Jasper, it crosses from British Columbia to Alberta, and the clocks move forward an hour.

The area is a wildlife sanctuary, and it's common to see all sorts of wild animals in their natural habitat. There's a good chance of spotting buffaloes, eagles, and even bears.

At 4pm, the train arrives at Jasper National Park. Stay here for a few days to soak in the park's tremendous natural beauty.

photographyforachange.com

Day 2 to 4

Jasper to Toronto

62 hours

Back onboard, the train leaves the snowy peaks of the majestic Rockies behind and heads for Toronto over the next 3 days.

readersdigest.ca

The Canadian slowly lumbers through this massive country, crossing 4 Canadian provinces and 3 time zones on its way to Toronto.

The train emerges into vast prairieland that continues for miles – across Alberta, Saskatchewan, and Manitoba, known as the breadbasket of Canada.

The sheer scale of Canada becomes undeniable as the train picks up speed over dead straight stretches of track. Small communities and the occasional farm flash past.

There's something beautiful about the vast stretches of amber and green laid out under the immense sky.

The next morning, I woke up next to a lake.

Actually, many many lakes.

We're now in the lush forests of Ontario, surrounded by its thousands of trees and lakes.

Multiple days on a train sounds dreadfully boring. In truth, the train is a uniquely social experience.

The train often collaborates with young musicians and local artists who entertain passengers with live music in the lounge car.

Or you can have a stress-free journey, leisurely watching the countryside slip by as you enjoy the comfort and ease onboard.

Entertainment on the train is only limited by your imagination. Over breakfast, we invented salt-and-pepper checkers.

Together with a freshly-cooked medium-rare burger and beer... you'd start to wonder if people who fly across the country and never take the train are crazy.

That evening, we were treated to an incredibly sublime sunset.

The next morning, The Canadian pulls into Toronto's Union Station.

The station sits in the center of Toronto in the shadow of the famous CN Tower — CN standing for Canadian National Railways, of course!

Many people choose to end their journey in Toronto, with it being The Canadian's final stop.

But my plan was to travel to the Atlantic Ocean.

Day 4

Toronto to Kingston

2.5 hours

We're now in Eastern Canada! From here, I switched to the The Corridor, an inter-city train route that's perfect for city hopping.

backcountrycanadatravel.com

My first stop was the colonial city of Kingston to visit the mansion-covered Thousand Islands.

pavanmickey.blogspot.com

The islands range from the aptly named "Just Room Enough Island"...

flickr.com

...to Heart Island, where you'll find the incredible Boldt Castle.

tam.style

Day 4

Kingston to Montréal

2.5 hours

I continued east and made a stop at Montréal, Canada's second-largest city and its cultural heart.

quebecoriginal.com

Among all the cities in Canada, Montréal has decidedly the most different vibe. It almost feels like you've stepped into Europe.

vogue.com

Day 4

Montréal to Quebéc City

3.5 hours

If you're short on time, you can hop on The Ocean at Montréal, an 836-mile (1,346 km) overnight train that runs to the finish line at Halifax.

canadiantrainvacations.com

The Ocean uses modern Renaissance trains that were built for the Channel Tunnel train between UK and France. The project was aborted and the trains were sold to Canada.

I stopped at Quebéc City, a quaint 400-year-old city well known for its cobblestone streets, grand winter festivals and gorgeous architecture.

telegraph.co.uk

You won't miss the skyline-defining Fairmont Le Château Frontenac, claimed to be the most photographed hotel in the world.

Day 5

Quebec City to Halifax

18 hours

The final stretch to Halifax. The Ocean runs along the St Lawrence River into the Maritimes. If you're lucky, it's possible to spot whales from the train.

Good morning New Brunswick! It's also known as the drive-through province... but don't be mistaken — it’s worth stopping here for the Bay of Fundy, famous for having the highest tides in the world.

tourismnewbrunswick.ca

As the train approaches Halifax, it runs alongside glistening waters. We've crossed a continent from coast to coast, from Vancouver to Halifax, from the Pacific to the Atlantic...

As the train pulls into Halifax, there's a sense of elation that airline passengers will never know... we've done it, we've crossed Canada!

goodfreephotos.com

Epilogue

So that's the end of an epic 3,946-mile trip — considered by many as one of the world's greatest train journeys. I've crossed eight Canadian provinces and passed through some of North America's most vibrant cities. In just 5 days, I’ve seen both the Pacific Ocean and the Atlantic Ocean without taking a flight.

Traveling by train is one of the cheapest and easiest ways to see the most stunning sights in Canada. The journey involves zero stops at the gas pump and you don’t need to go through airport security. No other mode of transportation allows you to experience the country so intimately.

The Trans-Canada railway has been a once-in-a-lifetime smorgasbord of scenery. From the moment the train leaves the city center behind, to the many hours gliding through gentle prairie fields, rugged lake country, and picturesque towns... There's no other journey like it.

How much did it cost me?

I paid $699 for a rail pass, but you can do it for much less.

The cheapest ticket I found from Vancouver to Halifax was $558 during the same summer. The trip costs more with stops, so I just upgraded to a rail pass. That said, the prices for the rail pass has also gone up in 2018.

While the prices may not sound incredibly cheap, consider this: On this trip, I visited Vancouver, Jasper, Toronto, Kingston, Montréal, Québec City, Moncton, and Halifax.

That's 8 cities for under $700. The same itinerary would cost easily over $1,500 if done by plane or even car!

ruk.ca

Why are the trains so cheap?

Most passenger rail in Canada is heavily subsidized by the government. In 2014, each passenger on The Canadian received an average subsidy of $591.

If you do the math, the Canadian government is paying for over 60% your travel costs!

Image via theatlantic.com

On August 21, 2017, the United States will experience a total solar eclipse. The eclipse will span across the country from coast to coast.

A solar eclipse occurs when the moon gets in the way of the sun. In extremely rare circumstances, the moon aligns perfectly with the sun, creating a total solar eclipse.

With more than 300 million people living within a day's drive away from this year's solar eclipse, it's expected to be the most viewed celestial event in history.

What's the big deal about a total solar eclipse?

To put it simply, a total solar eclipse will be the most profound natural phenomenon you'll ever experience.

There's a story of Bill Kramer, an American eclipse chaser, who made a bet with a bemused German farmer in 1999. If the total eclipse they were about to watch wasn't the most incredible experience of his life, Kramer would buy him a beer.

After the eclipse, Kramer turned to see tears streaming down the farmer's face. In his hands, he was already holding a beer to offer to Kramer instead.

And it's true. You'll feel an overwhelming feeling of awe as you witness something so powerful, so incalculably grand.

It'll be the spookiest, most primal experience you'll have ever have. No other experience comes close to the multi-sensory strangeness of a total solar eclipse.

Image via lmneuquen.com

What happens during a total solar eclipse?

Imagine a bright, sunny morning, just like any other.

If you're on a mountain or an airplane, you'll see it sweeping across the landscape — a cloak of darkness enveloping the earth at more than 2000 miles per hour.

Image via giphy.com

Suddenly, the sun disappears. Day turns into night.

You'll shiver as you feel a sudden drop in temperature. The darkness swallows you. It becomes eerily quiet.

Image via discovermagazine.com

Things get weird fast. Even nature gets confused. The birds all think it's night so they stop singing. Fireflies may emerge. Cows return back to their barns. Chickens will roost.

When you look down, you'll see truly bizarre shadow effects. These are actually projected images of the eclipse itself under a tree.

Image via forbes.com

And when you look up, you'll see the most beautiful sight in the natural world: the corona.

Image via skyandtelescope.com

This is the sun's radiant atmosphere, glowing like a halo encircling the moon. It's been described as ten times more beautiful than watching sunrise over the Grand Canyon.

If you look around, you'll realize that the sky is now dark enough to see planets and stars, shining now even in the daytime.

Image via huffingtonpost.com

And a few minutes later, it’s over and bright once again. Just like that.

Image via youtube.com

Where's the best place to see the 2017 eclipse?

Image via eclipse2017.org

This is perhaps the most frequently asked question about the 2017 eclipse.

To see the total eclipse, you'll need to travel to the path of totality. It's a narrow band that stretches across 12 states. Only within this band will you experience a total solar eclipse.

There are some pretty cool spots along this path. The eclipse will pass over Grand Teton National Park for possibly the most dramatic scenery for the eclipse.

Image via awesomwallpaper.com

It'll then move over to Nebraska to visit Carhenge, a replica of the Stonehenge made using... cars.

Image via hopper.com

The second criterion is finding a spot with no clouds. This can be hard to predict. To put it another way, the best place is anywhere inside the path with clear skies on the magic day.

And perhaps the most important thing to consider, especially if you haven't made any bookings: millions of people are expected to travel into this narrow area to see the eclipse.

At this point, most hotel rooms inside the path of totality have been sold out for months or years. Some tourists are even reporting their reservations being canceled and rooms now going for as much as a $1,000 a night.

An option would be to stay a few hours away from the path and get an early driving start on the morning of August 21. NASA representatives predict that it may be one of the worst traffic days in national history. With that in mind, make sure you plan for extra travel time, especially on the day of the eclipse.

Here's a prediction of the traffic on August 21, 2017. You'll want to avoid driving in the red and perhaps even the orange zones.

Image via geekwire.com

Fortunately, much of the eclipse’s 67-mile-wide path crosses over rural portions of the country. Many cities and towns are offering space for camping as part of their eclipse celebrations, which may be your best bet at this point. As an added bonus, August is a perfect time of year for camping.

Attending an organized eclipse event is an ideal way to navigate the chaos. Every state within the path of totality is celebrating with festivals and events. Atlas Obscura has put together a guide to the best options still available in each state.

Towns and cities within the path of totality are prepared for an onslaught of crowds, which you may want to avoid. How crowded?

• Idaho Falls (pop. 58,374) is predicted to double in size.
• Carbondale, Illinois (pop. 26,192), home of Southern Illinois University, expects up to 60,000 visitors on campus.
• Prineville, Oregon (pop. 9000) may see 30,000 people show up for an eclipse-themed music and arts festival.
• Hopkinsville, Kentucky (pop. 33,000) anticipates 150,000 visitors.
• Madras, Oregon (pop. 6000) is expecting 100,000 visitors.
• Mitchell, Oregon (pop. 121), a town with no stoplights, is going to swell with 50,000 visitors.

Be prepared. And most important of all, don't forget to look skyward and enjoy the experience.

What do I need to see it?

Unless you want to look like a pirate for the rest of your life, staring directly at the sun is a bad idea. 30 seconds is all it takes to cause permanent eye damage, which often goes unnoticed because it rarely causes pain.

In fact, injuries have plagued every solar eclipse. In Europe, in 1999, 70 people lost some vision.

If you want to watch this year's eclipse, you’ll need a pair of solar eclipse glasses.

Image via nasa.gov

And in case you're wondering: no, your sunglasses will not do. Eclipse glasses block about 100,000 times more light than even the darkest ordinary sunglasses.

These eclipse glasses block out 99.999% of light and are necessary to enjoy the eclipse safely.

Soluna Solar Eclipse Glasses

Paper glasses like the Soluna Solar Eclipse Glasses are cheap and they work well. They come in packs of 10, so if somebody tears one, you have plenty more to pass around. And if you want to snap a photo on your phone, you can cut a pair of paper eclipse glasses and tape the filter over the camera.

$16 from Amazon (10 pack)

DayStar Universal Lens Filter 50mm

If you're looking to photograph the eclipse, you'll need a lens filter. DayStar Universal Lens Filter is an inexpensive way to outfit your camera. 50mm is the standard size, but they also sell larger filters for larger camera lenses: 70mm and 90mm.

$13 from Amazon

But there's a 76% eclipse here in San Francisco?

Yes, there will be. But I can guarantee you that it will also be remarkably disappointing.

In fact, you'll be able to see the solar eclipse from anywhere in the United States.

But as long as you're not within the path of totality, you will not see a total solar eclipse. It'll just feel like... nothing happened.

Why? Even when 99% of the sun is blocked, the amount of light is still 10,000 times stronger than a full moon. So even when there’s only 1% of the sun still visible, it’s still too bright.

In fact, a 50% eclipse occurred in San Francisco in 2014. I was there and nobody noticed anything at all, even as half of the sun was covered by the moon.

Make no mistake. The difference between whether you're inside the path of totality or outside it is literally the difference between night and day.

Aren’t there total solar eclipses in the US all the time?

Perhaps you think that you already saw one in school when you were a kid?

You didn't. It was probably a partial solar eclipse.

The chance of seeing a total solar eclipse is extraordinary low — on average, one appears over a location every 350 years. In fact, this will be the first total eclipse visible only in the US since we declared war on Great Britain in 1776.

Trust me. You'll want to go see this one.

“Derek, how do you find the cheapest flights?”

“What’s the best website to look for cheap tickets?"

“Hey, where’s that $20 you owe me?”

These are some of the most common questions I get from my friends. As a travel writer, I’ve tried hundreds of travel websites all claiming to have the lowest prices on flights. What I’ve found is that there’s hardly a reliable website that consistently shows the cheapest airfares.

So when I finally stumbled upon a service that actually delivers on that promise... I was completely staggered.

They’re called Flystein, a relatively unknown website that could really use a PR agency.

Their tagline is "human-powered flight search", which presumably involves a team of lowly-paid overseas workers.

Image via HBO

But in reality, they're a team of lowly-paid overseas workers... drinking margaritas on a beach in Thailand.

An actual photo of a Flystein team member.

The premise is simple: you pay a fee and they track down the cheapest flights for you.

Their team is made up of professional travelers who have figured out how to travel the world for cheap. They claim to be able to beat the lowest price that you manage to find for flights.

Unconvinced? You have good reason to be. Conventional wisdom says booking a vacation yourself will save you a lot of money — but conventional wisdom isn't always right...

The Test

In January 2017, I had last-minute plans to visit Singapore. I decided to pony up $49 to give Flystein a shot. I made my request through their website and was assigned to my own personal travel expert.

My name is Vlad. Thank you for trusting Flystein with your flights.

To get the best prices, I did an extensive search for the cheapest tickets first so Vlad would have a price to beat. I ran the search on Kayak, Google Flights, and Skyscanner.

Kayak: $827

Google Flights: $827

Skyscanner: $823

At this point, I was surprised at how good the prices were. What's even better was that I would be flying on non-stop direct flights.

Why is "legroom" advertised as a perk?

Feeling pretty smug with my own findings, I provided the information to Vlad. $823 was the price he had to beat.

To make it even more difficult for him, I added a requirement that I wanted to be the same direct flights without stops. I explained that I wasn't interested in spending hours of my life at some airport in China with no WiFi just to save a few dollars.

Vlad delightfully responded that he had taken up my impossible task:

I have started working on your request and will come back to you soon with an itinerary option for you.

Two hours later, Vlad came back with an update.

I found the same flights for $250 less.

...wait, what?

"How's that even possible?!" I shouted at my computer screen.

Vlad tried to calm me down with some ancient Russian wisdom:

You can often save a lot with flights between USA and Asia.

He proceeded to send me a detailed itinerary:

Jan 16    San Francisco 22:35 ➔ Singapore 06:45 (+2)
Feb 06    Singapore 09:00 ➔ San Francisco 09:05
Feb 06    San Francisco 10:40 ➔ Las Vegas 12:20
Mar 10    Beijing 07:30 ➔ Shanghai 09:50

Total     $578 per person

Note that the price listed includes all taxes and fees.

I was floored. Vlad took my original itinerary, added two flights that I won't use, and amazingly made my tickets $250 cheaper. That's a staggering 30% off my original price.

There is a little trick: 2 extra throw-away flights have been added to your itinerary in the end that you do NOT need to fly, it lowers the total price of your ticket, so you save a lot of money.

You're probably wondering at this point, why does adding two additional flights bring down the price?

Flystein basically uses flight strategies to take advantage of inefficiencies in pricing by working around the airline's fare and route systems. This is perfectly legal and the savings can be significant.

They employed two tricks here: hidden city ticketing and fuel dump. If you're interested in understanding the witchcraft magic behind them, here's how they work:

Hidden City Ticketing

A hidden-city flight is a flight where you get off at the layover rather than the final destination.

Flight prices are subject to the market and competition. As a result, a flight from Singapore to San Francisco might be $400, but a fare on the same airline from Singapore to Las Vegas with a stop in San Francisco might be $250.

So you book the flight to Las Vegas, but basically just walk out of the airport in San Francisco, because you don’t need to fly to Las Vegas.

Fuel Dump

"Fuel dumping" remains a well-guarded secret among those in the know. Bloggers get hate mail for writing about it. No kidding.

Airlines use a formula to price their flight tickets, starting with a base fare and adding fuel surcharges, airport fees, and taxes. Basically, fuel dump is a ticketing strategy that removes fuel surcharges from your airfares.

The details of pulling off this trick are fairly complicated, and not for the novice. In general, it involves adding an extra, unused flight to the end of the trip.

Jan 16    San Francisco 22:35 ➔ Singapore 06:45 (+2)
Feb 06    Singapore 09:00 ➔ San Francisco 09:05
Feb 06    San Francisco 10:40 ➔ Las Vegas 12:20
Mar 10    Beijing* 07:30 ➔ Shanghai* 09:50

* Actual cities have been changed to preserve this strategy.

In my case, Vlad added a Beijing to Shanghai flight at the end of my itinerary. I'll not be anywhere even remotely close to China, but what I do know is that it made my original flights a whole lot cheaper.

The Fine Print

That said, Flystein doesn't always work.

I've since recommended the service to three friends who tested it out. For two of them, Flystein couldn't find a cheaper price. However, for the one friend that it worked, Flystein managed to save her over $400.

I reached out to Flystein and asked why they couldn't find lower prices for some flights.

Our service works best for trips that are at least $500. We tend to find better prices when people travel from one continent to another. Complex trips and round-the-world itineraries are even better.

Also, more savings are possible if:

- Passenger has carry-on luggage only
- Passenger is under 31 years old or is a student
- Flexible with nearby airports
- Flexible on dates
- Stopovers allowed

Also, Flystein is not a free service. In fact, their fees have 3 tiers:

The best part about Flystein is that they offer a 100% money-back guarantee. If they can't beat the price that you've already found by greater than their fee, they'll return the fee in full. Although in my experience, the savings are typically over $200.

It's worth noting that Flystein doesn't actually book the flights for you, but simply finds you a cheaper deal and sends you a link to book it on a more established website like Expedia or Priceline. That way, you can be assured that your flight purchase was made with a trusted website.

If You Just Scrolled to the Bottom

Quite simply, I recommend using Flystein for all your flights above $500.

Even if you feel confident that you've found the best deal on the internet, you'll be surprised at what their travel experts can come up with.

I bought my flights for $578, a round-trip from San Francisco to Singapore. That's an incredible deal.

It's 100% risk-free and even if they do not find a better price, your flight prices will be checked by their experts for free. At the very least, you can be assured that you're always booking the cheapest ticket on the internet.

Basically, you'll always come out ahead.

Or don't take my word for it. You can read more reviews from other customers at their Facebook page.

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Image via gfycat.com

Canada

A Year of Celebrations.

The big, beautiful country in the North is turning 150 years old in 2017, and everyone is invited to its year-long birthday party. And the world's second-largest country even has a gift for you: Anyone can get a free Discovery Pass (worth $136) that provides free entry to all of its national parks in 2017, including the breathtaking Banff National Park.

Beyond its immense natural beauty, Canada's cities are truly having a moment. A good part of the action will center around the capital, Ottawa, which is putting on a solid 12 months of festivals and events. Montreal, in the spirit of its famous export Cirque du Soleil, is also filling the calendar with a carnival of fantastic celebrations in honor of its own 375th birthday.

And, with a weak Canadian dollar pushing down prices, the overseas visitor should have plenty of pocket money to spend on Canada’s phenomenal culinary scene and mysteriously underrated wine.

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Image via scaleupforeurope.com

Portugal

The Emerging Jewel of Europe.

It's got the sights, culture, and cuisine, yet Portugal still manages to fly under the radar. Perhaps it's this mystifying lack of recognition that helps the country remain a bargain. Add the weakness of the euro, and a visit to Portugal looks like an unbeatable deal.

Its capital, Lisbon, is one of the most vibrant, good-value, ebullient and attractive cities in Europe. The country's second-largest city, Porto, offers a stunning setting on the Rio Douro. TAP Portugal, the country’s airline, has recently introduced $799 round-trip tickets from New York to Lisbon that includes a free optional stopover in Porto, and not to mention the fleet of budget airlines from around Europe that makes getting to Portugal easier than ever.

Alternatively, consider a stopover in the Azores, an archipelago in the middle of the Atlantic with an astonishing diversity of terrain: lush volcanoes, medieval villages, relaxing hot springs, and towering cliffs. But it's a secret that won’t last: the Azores have seen a 31% increase in tourism over the last year, so make a trip in 2017 before things really take off.

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Image via reddit.com

Oregon

United States

Oregon is one of those places that doesn’t try to impress anyone but somehow impresses everyone. The state seems to have almost everything except the crowds. It has the highest concentration of waterfalls in North America, each of them staggeringly beautiful. It has a coastline that rivals that of California's, with the added bonus of no traffic and tourists. Above all, the entire state has no sales tax which makes it a serious shoppers' paradise.

However, in 2017, the biggest draw to the state is an occasion that hasn't been seen in the United States for almost 40 years — a total solar eclipse on August 21, 2017. While you may have probably seen a lunar eclipse or partial solar eclipse in your life, this is the grand- daddy of all celestial phenomenon. For a brief minute or two, day will suddenly turn into night as if the sun mysteriously vanished from the sky. It's a completely surreal experience that will be etched into your memory for the rest of your life.

Portland, the state's largest city, is America’s city of the future: a friendly, sustainable, ethical place that values good living and leisure over acquisitiveness and ambition. World-class wineries and microbreweries are all within a short driving distance, making the city a good place to based yourself while waiting for the eclipse. But don't get too drunk and miss the show — it won’t happen again in Oregon for nearly a century.

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Image via nationalgeographic.com

Moscow

Russia

When I arrived in Moscow on the Trans-Siberian Railway in 2011, it was staggering. The city was grand and breathtaking to the point that it almost puts Paris to shame. You can feel the sheer ambition of the Soviet Union from just walking around.

The city's most popular attractions are still extremely worthwhile, from the imposing Kremlin complex to the candy-striped domes of St. Basil's Cathedral. As the country gears up to host the 2017 FIFA Confederations Cup and the 2018 FIFA World Cup, Moscow is ready to show the world how much it has to offer.

And with the Russian ruble hovering at a tempting exchange rate, the country has never been more affordable.

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Image via 500px.com

Bermuda

Island Life with British Flair.

From most major east coast US cities, Bermuda is a quick hop away — a ridiculously short two-hour flight. The island has pulled itself out of stagnation and barreled its way into the future with some big changes. The most famous development is the $100 million overhaul of the Hamilton Princess & Beach Club, the island’s 132-year-old grande dame, which has a stellar art collection and infinity pool overlooking the harbor. James Beard Award and Top Chef winner Marcus Samuelsson's new restaurant, Marcus, serves locally sourced fare and is one of the island's top draws. In 2017, Bermuda will host the world's most prestigious sailing race, the America's Cup, which culminates with two months of racing and events in May and June.

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Image via imgur.com

Cape Town

South Africa

Cape Town has been working hard on its cultural and culinary scene to cement its reputation as an African city with a global outlook. The Zeitz Museum of Contemporary African Art (MOCAA) opens in 2017 and is heralded as South Africa's answer to New York's MoMA and London's Tate Modern. It will be the world’s largest museum of contemporary African art and occupies a soaring century-old grain silo. Don't miss Chef Luke Dale-Roberts' acclaimed restaurant, The Test Kitchen, which was recently ranked 22 on the World's 50 Best Restaurants list.

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Image via theepochtimes.com

Rwanda

Home to an Endangered Species.

Just two decades ago, Rwanda was the site of one of the worst genocides in human history. It’s astonishing to think how the country has quickly transformed itself into one of the safest and forward-looking countries in the region. Instead of ignoring its past, the country stares at it right in the face, through its museums and education. The main draw of Rwanda, though, is that it’s one of the very few sites in the world where you can see mountain gorillas in the wild. In June 2017, it will become even more enticing when Wilderness Safaris’ upscale Bisate Lodge opens near Volcanoes National Park, where visitors can see the critically endangered animals. With dramatic views of the forested volcanic peaks, this new safari lodge is making a firm commitment to fund conservation projects and community development. A limited number of people are allowed near the gorillas each day, and now is the time to make the visit — a mere 800 mountain gorillas are left in the wild.

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Image via 500px.com

Papua New Guinea

Time-forgotten Garden of Eden.

Just to the north of Australia, Papua New Guinea has remained mostly untamed and unspoiled. Life pretty much goes on as it has for centuries for its indigenous cultures in their secluded villages. While the country still only attracts the adventurous, recent homegrown tourism initiatives have made planning and booking your trip easier. Travelers adventurous enough to make the journey there are rewarded with volcanic fjords, vibrant coral reefs, and vast rainforests — home to the threatened tree-kangaroo and Queen Alexandra’s birdwing, the largest butterfly in the world.

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Image via imgur.com

Seoul

South Korea

South Korea has often had to live in the shadow of its more well-known neighbor, Japan — but 2017 might just be its year. This is, after all, a country rich with culture, cuisine, and city life. For over a decade, its capital, Seoul, has been striving to become a more attractive and tourist-friendly metropolis. Seoul’s brand-new 1,820-foot Lotte World Tower is the tallest building in the country and its observation deck (floors 121 to 123) is one of the highest in the world. In the latter part of 2017, the city will unveil the Seoul Skygarden. Touted to rival New York's High Line, it’s a stunning urban garden that will stretch for nearly a kilometer, with performance spaces, cafés, and street markets alongside 254 types of trees, shrubs, and flowers from across the country.

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Image via nytimes.com

Cuba

The New Frontier of the Caribbean.

Cuba has spent decades as a forbidden destination, a tropical bastion of communism whose mystique was amplified by the fact it was largely off-limits to Americans. 2016 was the year Americans finally started going to Cuba again after nearly 50 years, as the restrictions loosen (but not completely). And now that the United States and Cuba have agreed to restore commercial flights, it’s all that much easier to get to. With the sharp rise in the number of Americans visiting, the country is changing quickly — for better or for worse. It's worth highlighting that this is a destination that I would visit sooner rather than later. Donald Trump has threatened to restrict Americans’ right to travel there, and meanwhile, hotel prices are skyrocketing exponentially. It may seem, then, Cuba is at risk being off-limits to most Americans once again.

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Image via 500px.com

Nashville

United States

Nashville has truly come into its own, and 2017 looks to be its banner year. The Ryman Auditorium turns 125 years old, the Country Music Hall of Fame & Museum is celebrating 50 years, and the Bluebird Café will be having its 35th anniversary. There’s a fabulous food scene with new and upcoming eateries. In fact, some 85 people are moving here every day. On August 21, just like Oregon mentioned above, you’ll be able to see the super-rare total solar eclipse from the city. While you’ll need to drive out from Portland in Oregon, you can stay put in Nashville — it’s the only major American city in the direct viewing line for the eclipse.

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Image via gfycat.com

Finland

Centennial Celebrations.

Finland celebrates 100 years of independence in 2017, with events planned in every region. Expect everything from al fresco concerts and culinary experiences to sauna evenings and art exhibitions. Finland’s 40 national parks, 12 wilderness areas, and 6 national hiking areas are sanctuaries for nature-lovers. The country is also hosting the World Figure Skating Championships and the Nordic World Ski Championships this year. All these coupled with the fact that you may be able to catch the elusive northern lights while you’re there, makes the country an incredibly tempting trip.

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Cartagena

Colombia

Decades of civil war and violent crime meant Colombia was out-of-bounds for most sensible travelers. Fast forward to the present day, you’ll be hard-pressed to find any signs of conflict in the country. Colombian President Juan Manuel Santos was recently awarded the 2016 Nobel Peace Prize for his efforts to end the 52 years of war. Moreover, the country is expecting a visit from the Pope Francis in 2017. On the Caribbean coast, Cartagena is a fairy-tale city of romance and preserved beauty lying within an impressive 13km of centuries-old colonial stone walls. The old town is a UNESCO World Heritage site – a maze of cobbled alleys, balconies covered in bougainvillea, and massive churches that cast their shadows across plazas.

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Image via wallpaperhd.pk

Hamburg

Germany

Germany’s second-largest city and biggest port has always been one of its most intriguing cities. Located on the Elbe River near the North Sea, Hamburg is laced with canals. On top of that, Hamburg has more bridges (over 2,300) than Amsterdam, Venice and London combined. When the tide cooperates, you can cruise the canals crisscrossing Speicherstadt, one of the world’s largest historic port warehouse districts. Recent years have seen the banks of the Elbe River morph into an architectural wonderland, with icons such as Zaha Hadid’s River Promenade reshaping the landscape.

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Image via imgur.com

France

For Once Without the Crowds.

It's been over a year since the attacks on Paris and other parts of France. It's worth remembering that your chances of being caught up in a serious incident in France are still extremely small. Meanwhile, some travelers have been scared off by the incidents, meaning this notoriously tourist-filled destination might just be a little quieter in 2017. Today, when you step into the Louvre, you're less likely to be battling crowds in front of the Mona Lisa. A reservation at L'Arpege, Guy Savoy and the city's other temples of gastronomy is a possibility rather than a pipe dream. And with hotel occupancy down 30%, and the euro trading at a low, France is suddenly affordable. The police presence is palpable, and people are taking care of one another. There's never been a better time to go.

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Image via 500px.com

Jerusalem

Israel

Known more for its religious sites and ancient monuments, Jerusalem has proved that it has way more to offer. Its culinary scene has blossomed to rival Tel Aviv. The Jewish diaspora and the Middle East merge at restaurants like Ishtabach — try the Kurdish shamburak, a pastry with brisket, potatoes, and chimichurri — and Machneyuda, known for its standout beef tartare with plums. At the sprawling Mahane Yehuda Market, food-and-drink spots have popped up in produce stalls, many of which stay open long past sunset. In March 2017, Brown Jerusalem Hotel will open complete with a new bar in an underground water cistern.

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Image via cntraveler.com

Uruguay

Quietly Undiscovered.

Uruguay has always been something of an underdog. After two centuries living in the shadow of its neighbors, South America’s second smallest country is finally getting a little well-deserved recognition. It’s an easy overnight flight from the US to Montevideo, the seaside capital that feels like a smaller, tidier version of Rio. The city has gorgeous beaches that stretch for miles, terrific food including some of the world’s best beef, phenomenal small-production wines that are surprisingly affordable. From there, press on to the country’s wild, eastern shores, where sleepy surf towns like Punta del Diablo and miles of perfectly golden beaches await.

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The northern lights are nature's most dazzling light show. Also known as the aurora borealis, it's often on any traveler's bucket list. The lights appear only in the frigid cold Arctic regions from September to March, and lucky stargazers can witness its unearthly surreal colors dancing across the sky.

There's some bad news though.The northern lights are expected to appear less frequently over the next 10 years.

No, the northern lights aren’t disappearing. But with every passing year until about 2025, the chances of crossing them off your bucket list gets a bit slimmer.

The northern lights take place on an 11-year solar cycle. As we enter 2017, we're well onto the downswing of the cycle. This means fewer nights filled with the aurora borealis, an effect that will likely last until around 2025 or even 2026. You can see still the lights even in 2020, but it would much less frequent.

With each passing year, the northern lights are going to be much more difficult to see.

Where to See the Northern Lights in 2017

After 18 hours of researching and considering more than 30 different places around the world, I've narrowed it down to the top 4 places based on where you live.

With some luck, you will see anything from an ethereal green glow on the horizon to pulsating scarlet streaks across the sky, but bear in mind that it's never a guarantee. Aurora hunting is ultimately a game of luck, and it does get frustrating going all the way to a place just for the aurora yet it doesn’t appear. Go for the activities, go for the attractions, keep yourself entertained so that you won’t be sorely disappointed with your vacation if the northern lights don’t show up.

If you are on the west coast of America...Fairbanks, Alaska

It's said that if the sky was clear every night, you'd be able to see the northern lights on 250 nights a year at Fairbanks in Alaska. I can't verify the authenticity of that statement, but one thing's for sure: Fairbanks is the single best city for Americans on the west coast to see the northern lights.

While there may be better places in Alaska and Canada to see the northern lights, in my research I found that flying and finding an accommodation in Fairbanks is far cheaper and easier than other destinations like Fort Yukon, Whitehorse, or Yellowknife.

The city has a fair bit of light pollution, so driving out or picking a hotel some miles outside the city would be helpful. In particular, the Chena Hot Springs Resort is highly recommended, located about 60 miles from downtown Fairbanks.

If you are on the east coast of America...Iceland

I don't even know where to begin describing how amazing Iceland is. Yes, it's more cloudy than the other destinations listed here, but even if you don't see the northern lights, you'd still have a fantastic trip. That's Iceland for you.

If you think of Iceland and imagine a land of frozen desolation, you may be surprised to learn that the country's name is a misnomer. Thanks to the warm waters of Gulf Stream, the climate is quite mild. In fact, the temperature is usually better in the winter compared to other northern light destinations.

What's more, being a volcanically active island, the country is littered with geothermal hot springs from where you can soak in comfort and enjoy the northern lights. The country is currently experiencing a tourism boom and of particular note, WOW Air is offering $99 flights from the United States to Iceland. It's almost a no-brainer.

If you are in Europe...Tromsø, Norway or Abisko, Sweden

Tromsø is arguably the most popular out of all the northern light cities, much due to its easy accessibility by flight and a plethora of excursions and activities you can do. Above all, it's a charming city with good restaurants and lots of Airbnb rentals.

Tromsø is also located near several different meteorological zones. So if it's cloudy in one place, there are likely to be clear skies a short drive away. If you don't want to be hunting the lights by yourself, there are a number of aurora-chasing snowmobile or bus tours that you can join.

Another inviting option is to fly to Stockholm, then take a 13-hour sleeper train to Abisko in the far north of Sweden. Cloud cover — the aurora hunter's arch enemy — shouldn't trouble you there. Mountains and favorable prevailing winds combine to create some of northern Scandinavia's most cloud-free skies. It's often claimed that the city has statistically the most nights of clear skies in Europe.

At Abisko, you can take a chairlift up to the Aurora Sky Station, which is set at nearly 3,000 feet and in an ideal spot for seeing the lights.

If you are in Asia or Australia...Pick from the above

For what it's worth, Asia is pretty big and it would depend on where exactly you are. For some countries, it's cheaper to visit Norway or Sweden; while in other countries, flying to Alaska is the better option. In many cases, the prices for all of the above destinations were comparable and it's really a toss-up.

Once again, depending on where you live, I would pick the destination with the easiest flight connections. Beyond that, just go with your interest level in each country.

What about the southern lights?

While the northern lights get all the spotlight and fame, the southern lights are equally magnificent on the opposite side of the world. Also known as the aurora australis, the southern lights also occur but are not as often observed.

To illustrate why they're observed less often, here's the auroral oval in the north, spanning across a good handful of countries and cities.

And we compare it to the auroral oval in the south...

...which pretty much covers only Antarctica. So basically, the primary audience of the southern lights is these guys here.

Traveling coast-to-coast across the United States by train is one of the world’s greatest travel experiences. Amazingly, it’s also one of the world’s greatest travel bargains — the 3,400-mile trip can cost as little as $186.

The American railroads are reminiscent of a bygone era. These were the trains that tamed the Wild West, fueled the Gold Rush, and served as the backbone of the Industrial Revolution. At its peak, it was the most luxurious mode of transportation that money could buy. Alas, the golden age of American railroads came to an end. Automobiles arrived and the airplane industry took off. Soon, many railroad companies had to cut losses and ceased their passenger services.

Today, the USA still has an excellent rail network for visitors that’ll take you to almost all the towns and cities a visitor would want to see. Arguably, the most scenic and historic of all the train routes in America is the cross-country journey from San Francisco to New York. As you climb through the snow-capped Sierra Nevadas, and further east through the heart of the Rockies, you may find it hard to disagree.

In December 2011, I traveled from San Francisco to New York by train.

This is my trip in pictures.

The 3,400-mile coast-to-coast train ride takes 4 days if you do it without stopovers. Of course, you should make stopovers, but you’ll need to buy separate tickets for each leg.

The train doesn’t technically depart from San Francisco but 20 minutes away in Emeryville.

I arrived at the station and found my train — the famous California Zephyr, a direct train traveling 2,438 miles from San Francisco to Chicago over 3 days.

At 9:10 am, I boarded the train to begin my journey across America.

Day 1

San Francisco to Salt Lake City

17 hours

The train begins its journey running alongside the tranquil waters of the San Francisco Bay Area for some fabulous coastal views.

At some parts, the train was literally a foot from the water.

In the distance, I saw something that wasn’t too inviting.

The famous fog of San Francisco was rolling in, and it rolled in fast.

Before long, the splendid bay view became this.

It appeared that we may have made a wrong turn into the enchanted forest, and life around us started dying.

The window eventually became a smokescreen of white. I fell asleep soon after.

I woke up some hours later and noticed that people were drawn to the scenery outside.

No doubt that it was something worth looking at.

I moved to the Sightseer Lounge car, fitted with enormous windows that wrapped upward into the ceiling.

At Sacramento, an expert from the California State Railroad Museum came onboard to give live commentary of the scenery.

As we passed Donner Lake, he retold the story of the Donner Party who were stranded here in the winter of 1846. Some of the party of 87 resorted to cannibalism; only 48 survived.

Strangely enough, this made me hungry. So I went down to the cafe and bought myself some lunch.

As the train climbed into the Sierra Nevada, the temperature dropped quickly and we were suddenly surrounded by snow.

Another few hours later, the landscape turned into a vast, barren desert. If you fall asleep and wake up, it’s almost like you were transported to a different planet.

With a gleaming casino in the distance, it became clear — we have crossed into Nevada. The train calls at Reno, the Biggest Little City in the World.

Somewhere in the middle of the desert, I lost cell phone data signal.

So I resorted to taking selfies to pass the time.

In the evening, we were treated to a view so sublime, you begin to wonder if people who fly across the country and never take the train are quite possibly insane.

As the sun set, it was time for dinner.

There’s some luck of the draw involved with dining on an Amtrak train. There are usually insufficient seats for dinner, so passengers are seated with random strangers at the tables.

You never know who your dinner companion would be. It’s awkward for the first time, but many frequent train passenger actually find it to be one of the joys of train travel — meeting people from all walks of life.

As for me? I enjoyed a half rack of baby back ribs with a man who didn’t like talking very much.

An hour later, at a small Nevada town, there was a scene of confusion as the train pulled into the station with police cars standing by. The police boarded the train and arrested my dinner companion on suspicion of possessing firearms.

During the night, the train crossed from Nevada into Utah. Entering a new time zone, the clocks are adjusted an hour forward.

At 3 am in the morning, the train pulls into my first stop, Salt Lake City.

I spent a day exploring its Mormon heritage before moving on.

Day 2

Salt Lake City to Denver

15 hours

The journey between Utah and Colorado is regarded to be the most spectacular train ride in all of the United States.

We spent the morning chugging through the American Wild West.

The train follows the southern rim of the astonishing Book Cliffs.

We crossed into Colorado, marked by the sign “Utah-Colorado” painted on the wall of Ruby Canyon straddling the two states.

The California Zephyr climbs into the Rocky Mountains and snakes for hours through beautiful Colorado canyons.

For much of its journey through Colorado, the train follows the path of the Colorado River.

You’ll get a chance to see a particularly odd breed of Colorado wildlife indigenous to the area.

It’s long been a tradition for rafters to salute the passing train, giving this area the highly appropriate nickname of “Moon River”.

There were also dozens of Amish folks traveling on the train. They tend to avoid technology and not use cars or airplanes. Occasionally, they resort to taking the train.

Soon, it was my favorite time of the day: lunch.

Once again, it was a game of “social roulette”. I was assigned to sit with two elder ladies, who may or may not have heads.

I ordered a bacon cheeseburger, which looked surprisingly good for something that was cooked on a moving train.

The train passed the Byers Canyon Rifle Range, and I found myself hoping that the guns were not pointed in the wrong direction.

The train eventually emerged from the Rockies onto the Great Plains as we approach Denver.

The train pulls into Denver, the Mile High City. Despite its location on a vast flatland, Denver still stands at 5,280 feet above sea level.

Denver makes a lovely stop for exploring the city and its surrounds. I spent two days there before moving on.

Day 3

Denver to Chicago

19 hours

Today’s journey would bring me through 4 states — Colorado, Nebraska, Iowa, and Illinois. I slept through most of the journey as the train traveled through the night.

Sleeping on the train is surprisingly comfortable.

The seats are spacious with plenty of legroom and they recline a good 40 degrees. They’re more comfortable than economy class seats on planes; perhaps something more like business class on a crappy domestic airline.

Sleeper cabins are also available, albeit at a significantly higher cost.

The California Zephyr completes its journey at Chicago’s Union Station, a historic landmark in its own right.

A noteworthy attraction for movie fans is the stairway from the famous stroller scene in ‘The Untouchables’.

I spent a day exploring the city. The view from John Hancock Tower is particularly impressive at sunset.

Day 4

Chicago to New York

20 hours

The California Zephyr gets you as far as Chicago. To complete the journey to New York, you’d need to transfer to the Lake Shore Limited.

The many hours on the train makes for a fantastic time to write.

Amtrak actually offers a writers’ residency program where they provide free train rides just for you to sit and write.

The train travels through Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, and Pennsylvania, before entering New York state.

As soon as you see the Hudson River, you feel a sense of exhilaration that airline passengers will never know. We’ve almost crossed America by train!

The train finally pulls into New York Penn Station, ending my journey on the east coast of the United States.

Epilogue

Well, that concludes it — an epic 3,397-mile journey across America. It took me through 11 states and 4 time zones to cross the entire North America continent from coast to coast. In just four days, I’ve seen both the Pacific Ocean and the Atlantic Ocean without taking a flight. Some people have told me that I’ve already seen more of the country than most Americans.

Traveling by train gives you a glimpse into the soul of America. The experience rewards you with far more stories and experiences and sights than you could ever witness alone in a car, eyes fixed on the road, or on a five-hour flight across the country.

If you want to see tourist America, rent a Cadillac, get on Route 66 and stop off at a few cutesy diners and motels. If you want to see the real America in all its spectacular, crazy, kooky glory, get on the train.

How much did it cost me?

I paid $429 for a 15-day rail pass. You can do it for much less.

The rail pass includes 8 train rides which I used to explore other cities after my cross-country journey. If you’re thinking of stopping at a few cities, a rail pass can be a great value. Note that a 3-day journey counts as one ride, but so does a 30-minute one! If you work out the math, each ride is $54 on the rail pass. In comparison, most long-distance journeys cost upwards of $80.

For some people, buying the direct California Zephyr and Lake Shore Limited tickets should suffice in getting you from San Francisco to New York. Tickets for the entire journey are available from just $186.

This is the Mendenhall Glacier, a magnificent 13-mile-long sheet of ice formed some 3,000 years ago. It’s the most famous of Alaska’s ice floes, attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors each year to see its vast, frozen expanse.

Few visitors, however, see the glacier from its most spectacular vantage point: inside it. Deep within the glacier, there’s a magical blue world of ice caves unlike anything you’ve seen anywhere else in the world.

These are the Mendenhall Ice Caves. They exist only because the glacier is melting — and as you can guess, glaciers don’t keep on melting forever.

As the ice melts, the glacier shrinks in size and appears to recede away from the lake. Naturalists estimate that within a few years the glacier will retreat onto land and within 25 years retreat out of view entirely from the observation area.

In May 2015, I decided to see it before it disappears.

This is my trip in photos.

The journey to the Mendenhall Ice Caves begins with an arduous 8-mile hike.

The U.S. Forest Service describes the hike as “over rough, steep, uneven, unmarked, and slippery terrain.”

“…across a moon-scape of loose rock with a confusing array of markers.”

If you’re successful in navigating the unmarked forested trail, your path should look something like this.

And hopefully, you’ll be seeing something like this.

Happily, we sprinted towards the ice squealing like little kids.

But as we stepped on the 1,000-year-old ice, we discovered that it looked like 1,000-year-old ice.

We realized that dirt accumulates at the bottom.

We needed to hike further up the glacier.

But shoes don’t work like shoes on ice. So we upgraded them with crampons.

We also brought along ice axes, but mainly for the photos.

And so, we began marching up the slippery icy surface.

As we ascended the glacier, the views were astounding.

But there was no time to be distracted by the jaw-dropping scenery. We had to push on.

In some places, though, pushing wouldn’t have been such a good idea.

Scattered across the glacier are crevasses where a fall would have fatal consequences (worth a watch).

I was surprised to learn that when glaciers melt, they form puddles of Tide detergent.

Ever heard the saying that nature hides its treasures in the ugliest of places?

No? Well yeah, I just made that up.

But then we found the entrance to the cave hidden in a corner of the glacier that looked like mother nature’s dumping ground.

The entrance wasn’t wheelchair accessible.

Some sections of the cave were so tiny that we were on all fours.

If feeling claustrophobic wasn’t enough, you’ll soon realize that you’re under tons of melting, shifting ice.

Hikers who enter the caves are susceptible to the risk of falling ice, which can break off in chunks as big as refrigerators.

A woman was killed a few months ago in an ice cave collapse (non-graphic & worth a watch).

As the ice melts, the cave gets pretty wet with freezing cold water raining down from the ceiling.

When you finally settle in, you’ll find yourself in this surreal, turquoise-toned world.

It’s absolutely ridiculous and unreal.

It’s almost like we entered Superman’s Fortress of Solitude.

Except I looked more like Smurf than Superman.

But if you didn’t fall into a deep crevasse or get killed by falling ice, there’s nothing to be feeling blue about.

Epilogue

The Mendenhall Ice Caves were an extraordinary experience — the kind that will live with you for the rest of your life. There’s simply nothing else like it.

The best way to explore the ice caves is to go with an experienced tour guide who knows the conditions at any time and what areas are safe to walk through. Glaciers are volatile, so make sure to have good hiking boots, waterproof clothing, and your guide will likely issue protective headgear.

But this is not a bucket list place.

The Mendenhall Ice Caves aren’t going to wait around for you; perhaps not even for the next 10 years. With every passing year, rising global temperatures have caused the glacier to melt even faster. As the ice melts and thins, visiting the ice caves becomes increasingly challenging and dangerous.

If there’s one thing that Bing Maps does better than Google Maps, it’s showing you the impact of climate change over the span of just a few years.

All things considered, you’ll probably want to visit it soon.

In 2008, Singapore Airlines introduced their Suites Class, the most luxurious class of flying that is commercially available.

The Suites were exclusive to their flagship Airbus A380, and they go beyond flat beds by offering enclosed private cabins with sliding doors that cocoon you in your own little lap of luxury. The interior was designed by French luxury yacht designer Jean-Jacques Coste and comes along with a plush soft leather armchair hand-stitched by the Italian master craftsmen Poltrona Frau. Perhaps most well-known of all, Singapore Airlines became the first and only commercial airline with a double bed in the sky.

However, the experience came with a hefty price tag. With round-trip tickets costing up to S$23,000 (or US$18,400), it was completely unattainable for most people.

Formerly, the only way for an average person to fly in the Suites was to take out a bank loan. And then I remembered that most of my personal net worth exists in frequent flier miles rather than cash.

So in September 2014, after splurging a colossal amount of miles...

I was booked on Suites Class to New York!

This is my trip in photos.

But first, a lot of unnecessary build up...

I arrived at Singapore Changi Airport and proceeded to the Singapore Airlines counters for check-in.

As I joined the line for check-in, I was promptly greeted by a staff.

“Good evening sir, how may I help you?”

I had a sudden mental light bulb and said “HI OOPS SORRY NO YOU CAN'T HELP ME” and briskly walked away, leaving a bewildered staff.

I had almost forgotten that Changi had a luxurious check-in lounge specially for First Class and Suites passengers, set apart from the rest of the check-in areas.

Thank goodness I remembered, or else I would've courteously and professionally assisted by the lady at the regular check-in desk!

Interestingly enough, my suitcases weren't even weighed. I suppose when you fly Suites, you can pack a luggage filled with gold bars and get away with it.

Soon, I was in possession of The Golden Ticket.

Flying in the Suites also includes an invitation to The Private Room, which the staff was proud to say that it was “higher than first class”.

I arrived at the lounge and was approached by an attendant. "May I escort you to The Private Room?" she asked.

I followed her past what seemed to be about 50 people in the Business Class lounge. She walked noticeably fast, seemingly afraid that I would be disgusted by the presence of the working class. Here I was transferred to another attendant who walked me through the First Class lounge, and then through a set of automatic sliding double doors before being transferred to yet another attendant.

Finally, after walking about 10 miles and having my documents inspected by 8000 people, I arrived at The Private Room.

Entering the confines of The Private Room, the staff greeted me by name. It’s like they all already knew me before even meeting me.

I wasn't hungry but I've heard rave reviews about the dining room. So I sat down and ordered a glass of champagne and had the Chicken and Mutton Satay plate.

...and the Baked Boston Lobster with Gruyere, Emmenthal and Cheddar.

...and also the U.S. Prime Beef Burger with Foie Gras, Rocket Leaf and Fried Quail Egg. Oh, and a Mango Smoothie too.

Completely stuffed at this point, I realized it was time for boarding.

There was a dedicated jet bridge solely for Suites passengers. Standing at the end of the bridge was a flight attendant ready to greet me.

“Good evening, Mr. Low!”

I realized that they would address me by whatever title I chose in my Singapore Airlines KrisFlyer profile. I instantly regretted not going with King Low or Princess Derek.

I was escorted to my Suite.

I picked the middle suite, which can be merged with the adjacent suite to form a double bed.

"Would you like a glass of Dom Pérignon, sir?” And I replied the only acceptable response to such a question: Yes.

“Sir, would you like a copy of every newspaper we have onboard today?"

At this point, the crew members came out to personally introduce themselves to me. Among them was Zaf, who was the Chief Steward of the flight.

As it turns out, he’s also the guy in the airline’s safety video.

Zaf told me that there were only 3 passengers in the 12 Suites, and joked that I could have a bedroom, dining room, and living room if I wanted.

And so I picked my dining room.

Dom Pérignon and Iced Milo in hand, it was time to take off.

I took this time to check out what was provided onboard the flight. Headphones from Bose, for example.

Salvatore Ferragamo amenity kit, which included a full-sized bottle of cologne.

Everything else was Givenchy: blankets, pillows, slippers, and pajamas.

As soon as the plane reached cruising altitude, I was offered another drink.

Seeing that it was almost 1 AM and I was just beginning to indulge in the whole suite experience, I decided to order coffee to stay up.

I don’t know much about coffee, but I do know the Jamaican Blue Mountain costs a ton. A pound of the Blue Mountain beans sells for $120 at Philz Coffee.

So I ordered the Blue Mountain and was instantly complimented by Zaf. “You have very good taste in coffee, sir.”

Zaf returns with the coffee and tells me about their selection of gourmet coffee and how the Blue Mountain was "by far the most outstanding".

I unglamorously gulped down the entire cup at once, while pretending to appreciate the finely-balanced traits of the Blue Mountain.

I asked him to recommend me a tea, and he quickly brought out a cup of TWG's Paris-Singapore tea.

Zaf knelt down next to me as I sampled the tea. He told me about the high-quality tea leaves. He told me about the hand-sewn cotton teabags. He told me about the fragrant cherry blossoms and red fruits infused into the tea. Somewhere in between, he might have mentioned about the history of coffee trade and the East India Company, but I can’t be sure.

He says that he has been with the airline for 19 years. Within the past 2 or 3 years, he has served Leonardo DiCaprio and Morgan Freeman flying in Suites Class.

I figured since Zaf was so available to recommend me coffee and tea, I asked him, “can you recommend me a movie?”

He picked The Grand Budapest Hotel, a fantastic movie which I thoroughly enjoyed. Off his head, he could name me the actors and talk about how brilliant their performances were in the movie.

“That’s incredible!” I exclaimed. “Are you like a savant of the cinema?”

“I just happened to be someone who likes movies,” he said, modestly.

“I will call you here every time I need a movie recommendation in the future!”

“Uh... okay!” he said, as brightly as he could.

As I settled in, supper service began.

Having stuffed myself with three entrées back in the lounge, I wasn’t particularly hungry so I settled for a 5-course supper.

For appetizer I had the Malossol Caviar with Lobster-Fennel Salad. And after clearing the plate in three bites, I asked for a second plate.

On to my third appetizer, I had the Duck Foie Gras with Shaved Fennel-Orange Salad, Beetroot, and Mizuna.

I picked the Fish Noodle Soup for the main course.

And Vanilla Bavarois with Raspberry Coulis for dessert.

After supper, I decided to burn off the calories by walking around the plane. I asked the crew if they could give me a guided tour of the A380 and they willingly obliged.

We walked up the front stairs to Business Class, down the length of the upper deck, and back down a spiral staircase to Economy Class. Zaf said he'd love to take me to see the pilots' cockpit, but the airline has stopped allowing that in recent years due to security concerns.

When I got back to the Suites, the lights were already turned down indicating it was time to sleep.

In the Suites, you don’t just lie on a seat that has gone flat. Instead, you step aside while the Singapore Airlines flight attendants transform your Suite into a bedroom, with a plush mattress on top of a full-sized bed. When the adjacent suite is empty, the dividing partition can be brought down to create a double bed.

Zaf and a stewardess went about making the bed.

I don't even know how to express this in words.

I probably need a poet to describe how amazing this was.

I jumped into bed squealing like a little girl.

I spent the next hour lounging in all possible positions.

Some people might say this seems to be the loneliest flight ever. And to that, I say this:

And while you're doing stupid things like that in the Suite, you can use the 'Do Not Disturb' button for privacy.

Through the entire flight, the attendants check on you almost every 3 minutes without being intrusive or annoying. They would just briskly walk past you with a quick glance.

I paid a visit to the restroom to change into the pajamas provided.

It's a restroom, what were you expecting?

There’s a seat that folds down that’s actually more comfortable than most Economy Class seats.

And henceforth, I slept. Well, not on the toilet of course.

When I woke up, I saw the clock and my heart sank. A little over 3 hours to Frankfurt. I'd slept for 6 hours, or $6,000 worth of the flight.

So to cheer myself up, I asked for a chocolate and was handsomely rewarded with two.

We landed at Frankfurt for a two-hour layover, and the three of us in Suites Class were escorted to the Lufthansa Senator Lounge which had a spa and hot shower.

Getting back on the plane, a new crew was onboard for the flight to New York.

The flight attendant insisted on taking a photo, since I was a big important travel blogger.

It was 8 in the morning and I decided to begin the day with a Singapore Sling.

For breakfast, I used Singapore Airlines' Book the Cook service.

It allows you to pre-order a specific meal before the flight, which is then specially put onboard the flight for you.

I had the Lobster Thermidor with Buttered Asparagus, Slow-roasted Vine-ripened Tomato, and Saffron rice.

And dessert, which I can't remember what it was.

When it was time to nap, I didn’t want to trouble the crew for a full double bed, so I opted for a single bed instead.

The partition between the two middle suites slides up to form a wall.

The single bed is plenty spacious on its own.

Waking up, I was immediately presented with the second meal I pre-ordered through Book the Cook.

U.S. Grilled Prime Beef Fillet designed by celebrity chef Alfred Portale.

As we finally landed at New York, a huge problem presented itself. Coming off a flight in the Singapore Airlines' Suites, I (a) didn't want to leave the airplane and (b) see a.

I have to say, after being served Dom Pérignon in a double-suite bedroom at 36,000 feet, I’m not sure flying experiences get any better than this.

But eventually I got off the plane, because New York's not too bad.

It’s January 2014. I’m in Colombia.

And I think I’ve found the world's most underhyped festival.

Welcome to the the Blacks and Whites' Carnival.

The scene is one of absolute chaos, an all-out war.

Small armies prowl the streets armed with canisters of spray foam and kilos of talcum powder.

No one is safe, not even total strangers; anyone that steps outside their door is fair game. It's a serious affair.

And the best part? There is hardly a tourist in sight.

For a week in January, the sleepy town of Pasto, Colombia, is transformed into a spectacular urban playground. Known locally as Carnaval de Negros y Blancos, the city goes wild and unleashes all the joy it has bottled up all year.

The celebration dates back to the time of Spanish rule, when slaves were allowed to party every year on January 5th, with their masters showing approval by painting their faces black. In turn, the slaves painted their faces white the following day. The piebald tradition is faithfully maintained till this day.

It’s difficult to describe the Blacks and Whites' Carnival. It’s the best of Holi, La Tomatina and Rio Carnaval all rolled into one frisky, dazzling festival. The festival has been declared by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

January 5th is Blacks' Day.

The agenda of the day? Get everyone as black as possible.

Strangers will walk up to you and smear you with black paint.

After about two minutes on the street, you look something like this.

The following day is Whites' Day.

The streets erupt with foam battles between strangers.

Everything including chalk, talc, flour or any other substance even vaguely white in color becomes ammunition. And I don’t use the term “ammunition” lightly.

No one is safe. No one is a stranger. Anyone that steps outside their door is automatically game for attack. You'll have to be on the alert for sudden attacks. Kids, teens, adults, and grandparents all join in the madness, ambushing strangers in mountains of foam.

I found myself running away from little kids who just don’t know when to quit.

Not even policemen are immune.

Of course, I decided to join in the fun.

First, I had to get myself some ridiculous-looking eye protection.

Then, we needed to blend in. So we wore t-shirts that said “100% Colombianos”.

Entering the battleground of Plaza De Nariño, we realized that didn't exactly help.

Almost immediately, we were drawn into a battle.

Emerging victorious from battle.

People are going to make a cake on your face.

And no one gives a shit that you're holding a camera.

It may all sound brutal... because it really is. Your eyes will sting from the foam, your lungs will struggle against the powder, and there will be talc everywhere. A few days after, I was still picking chunks of white out from my ears.

I’m sure this guy was, too.

After the battles come the street parades—some of the biggest, noisiest and most colorful anywhere in the world.

The locals, or Pastusos, are proud of their festival and are incredibly welcoming to the rare foreigner who shows up.

We appeared to be the only Asians present at the festival.

So, we pretended to be Asian TV superstars.

Step aside, Jay Chou.

Attending the craziness of the Blacks and Whites' Festival was by far the best experience I had in Colombia. It's utter pandemonium, and it brings out a playful, childish side of yourself that you never knew existed.

There’s something hilarious and liberating about dousing a complete stranger with party foam. I miss stalking the streets, a flour bomb in hand, half-hoping for a gush of foam to blast from around the corner.

How much did it cost me?

$201 for 3 days.

Prices are per person.

Of course, don’t just fly in for a 3-day trip. After the festival, explore the rest of Colombia or head down to Ipiales to see the stunning Las Lajas Sanctuary.

In the late 19th century, some guy thought it would be a good idea to build a train service from Europe across the whole of Asia. This guy was Tsar Nicholas II of Russia. And this project became the Trans-Siberian Railway.

Some 120 years later, it’s still the longest railway line in the world, spanning 9,300 kilometers, 87 cities, 8 times zones and 2 continents. If you take a nap starting at the Gulf of Finland and miss your stop, there’s a chance you’ll wake up at the Sea of Japan.

Considered one of the greatest train journeys in the world, the Trans-Siberian brings passengers into the heart of Mother Russia and its most remote regions. From the comforts of your carriage, you’ll speed pass almost every landscape on Earth, from mountains and snow, to deserts and sandstorms, to forests and lakes.

In May 2011, I backpacked from Asia to Europe alone.

This is my journey on the Trans-Siberian Railway.

I arrived at Beijing Railway Station.

I boarded train 3, a direct train heading to Moscow for 6 days.

The train takes a branch of the Tran-Siberian Railway called the Trans-Mongolian.

It starts from China and crosses into Mongolia, before joining the main line through Siberia.

With a lack of common sense you can make the 8000-km journey without getting off, but I decided to make occasional stops along the way.

Beijing to Ulaanbaatar

It’s a 30-hour journey to Ulaanbaatar, the capital of Mongolia.

You choose from three classes of cabin — spalny vagon (first class), kupe (second class), or platskartny (third class).

I had a 4-bed hard sleeper compartment in second class, which I shared with a Hong Konger and a German.

There are no showers onboard the train. And the guy from Hong Kong was heading non-stop to Moscow for six days.

It’s an extremely social journey, and by the first three hours you’re pretty much familiar with your compartment mates and neighbors.

Four-year-old Elena terrorized our carriage.

She spoke terrible English and I spoke terrible Chinese; we got along well. She turned out to be Russian.

There was a Chinese restaurant car.

Nobody enjoyed the complimentary lunch.

Slowly, we made our way north through China's mountainous terrain.

Eventually, the landscape flattens out.

And the engine is swapped for a lower powered one.

13 hours later, we arrived at Erlian, on the Chinese-Mongolian border.

Apparently, the wheels used for the Chinese tracks aren’t compatible with the narrower Mongolian and Russian tracks.

To enter Mongolia, the train had to make a stop to change its undercarriage bogies.

The entire train is lifted up by some amazing hydraulics while you're stuck on the stationary train for three hours. Toilets are all locked so you don’t piss on the engineers working below you.

The next morning, we woke up in Mongolia.

The Chinese restaurant car was replaced with a Mongolian one.

Piece of shit breakfast for 10 USD.

We were now in the Gobi desert.

Even with the windows shut, the sand find its way in.

After miles and miles of desolate land, a sprawling city appears out of nowhere, turning an endless desert landscape to an urbanized field of concrete blocks.

The train finally pulls into Ulaanbaatar.

Mongolia turned out to be such a fantastic destination, I ended up spending a full week there.

Ulaanbaatar to Ulan-Ude

Another 25 hours to Ulan-Ude in Russia.

I took the train to Ulan-Ude just to avoid breaking the journey by train. The train is much slower and more expensive than the bus. An Italian traveler I met at the hostel leaves the following morning by bus and will arrive earlier than me.

To know where you are, there are distance markers at every kilometer, displaying the distance from Moscow or Beijing.

So I spent the next eternity watching these distance markers go pass.

The train finally arrived at the Russian border.

If you thought the immigration lines at airports were bad — we spent 8 hours clearing immigration on the train.

I arrived at Ulan-Ude the following evening.

The only reason to stop at Ulan-Ude is to gaze upon the world’s largest Lenin head. And boy, it was huge.

Ulan-Ude to Irkutsk

A relatively short 8 hours to Irkutsk.

Between Ulan-Ude and Irkutsk lies 20% of the world's supply of fresh water, all contained within Lake Baikal. It's the deepest, clearest, and oldest lake in the world. In fact, it's so old that the species living in the lake have evolved separately from the rest of the world. More than 80% of the animals are endemic and can't found anywhere else in the world.

The train follows the circumference of the lake for some of the most amazing scenery of the whole journey.

I spent several days exploring an island in the lake — Olkhon Island. It turns out to be bigger than my home country, Singapore.

Irkutsk to Yekaterinburg

The longest leg: a 62-hour train ride covering some 3,400 km.

Unaware of the length of the journey ahead of me, I don't know what compelled me to come up with such a stupid idea:

I decided to travel in platskartny, the third class open carriage.

Maybe I'll get to meet some Russians and be merry over vodka!

Nope.

The next day, I woke up and looked out of the window to check my location. I realized that something wasn’t quite right. We were way behind schedule, and staying for far too long at the station.

The train continued for another couple of hours, before stopping again for 3 hours in the middle of no-damn-where in Siberia.I slept. I woke to the same scenery. No way, this isn’t right. People were having conversations with the provodnik (carriage attendant) in Russian that I couldn’t decipher. It’s almost a 15-hour delay in the schedule now. Maybe something was going on.

What’s the worst that could happen? I came up with a few scenarios — the most exciting one being a train derailing in an epic scene of big explosions. And when I returned home I would recount my heroic tale of survival and whatnot.

A few hours later, the train got moving again.

Well, no shit, Derek.

A cargo train a few hours ahead derailed, leaving behind a massive scene of destruction.

It was a complete mess — charred carriages, twisted metal and piles of broken wood.

You know, at least it wasn't my train.

Only hot water was provided onboard the train.

Everyone came well-prepared for the 3-day train journey with a complete set of utensils, cups and plates. But not me.

To the astonishment of the Russians, I converted my instant noodles cup into a tea cup.

Feeling sober already? Vodka resupply at every major station.

There’s also a strange thing about the time zones.

The length of this journey would take me through 4 time zones overland. All the trains run on Moscow time, but Russia has seven time zones all in all.

Michael Myers Shoemaker wrote in 1902:

“There is an odd state of affairs as regards time over here. Though Irkutsk is 3400 miles from St. Petersburg, the trains all run on the time of the latter city, therefore arriving in Irkutsk at 5 P.M., when the sun would make it after 9 P.M. The confusion en route is amusing; one never knows when to go to bed or when to eat. In an endeavour to follow my instinct yesterday I arrived in the dining car before the fires were lit, and promptly went back to bed. Today I should make it now about 8.30 — these clocks say 10.30, and some of these people are eating their luncheon.”

The clocks all show different times. People who boarded the train at Irkutsk, like me, had our watches adjusted to Irkutsk time (GMT +9). The train stations uses Moscow time (GMT +4), as should the train itself, but our carriage was a full hour slower (GMT +3) possibly due to the failure of correcting for Daylight Savings Time. The provodniks, the carriage attendants, had their watches set to their destinations’ time, usually a major city like Yekaterinburg (GMT +6) or Novosibirsk (GMT +7). And we were delayed by 15 hours from the original train schedule displayed in every carriage.

The train clock shows 03:00 while people are either preparing their breakfast or trying to sleep. Asking the provodniks for the time of arrival at a town creates only more confusion. Am I arriving at 7 or 8 in the morning or evening? Local time or Moscow time? By the next day, it’s impossible to tell if the meal you’re having is lunch or dinner.

Yekaterinburg to Vladimir

A 25-hour journey to Vladimir.

At some point, the train crosses continents from Asia into Europe, marked by a white obelisk.

I stopped in Vladimir to visit the fairy-tale town of Suzdal.

Imagine cramming more than thirty 600-year-old churches into an area less than 9 square km. That's Suzdal.

Vladimir to Moscow

It took 3 hours to get to Moscow, the capital of Russia.

It looks like a short distance on the map. But when you make a comparison, it's just about as large as some other countries.

Moscow feels like a different country from the rest of Russia altogether. It's grand and breathtaking, and it almost puts Paris to shame.

Moscow to St Petersburg

The last stretch: 8 hours to St Petersburg.

Technically not part of the Trans-Siberian line, but no trip to Russia will be complete without visiting St Petersburg.

If Moscow is where you admire the ambition of the Soviet Union, St Petersburg would be where you take in magnificence of Imperial Russia.

Epilogue

The greatest, most boring journey in the world.

It’s been exactly one month since I left Beijing. I was so damn glad to have made it all the way. Siberia’s no joke for a solo traveler — only 3% of people are able to speak English. You can wander the streets asking for help, and only 1 in 33 people can actually understand you.

By this point, I would’ve spent over 161 hours on trains — about 150 hours of it spent in boredom. I guess you’ve to be the kind of person who knows how to occupy themselves to enjoy this kind of thing. The Russian landscape wasn’t that much to look at — mile after mile after mile of Taiga forest. That said, I would love to do this journey again — the whole thing from Moscow to Vladivostok in winter.

For a country that spans such a staggering amount of area, some particularly interesting observations can be made:

The cars change sides.

In the east, cars are conveniently and cheaply imported from Japan, resulting in Japanese right-hand drive cars mixed with left-hand ones from Europe. As you head west, the proportion of right-hand cars on the roads gradually deceases until it’s completely left-hand drive in Moscow. Somewhere in the middle, it’s a strange mix.

The East transforming into the West.

Traveling from the east to the west, you'll see cities transform. Monasteries turn into churches. Toilets evolve from a mere hole in the ground to having proper seats with flush. The number of Asians you meet decreases until you know that you're in Europe.

It's like teleporting to a different land every time you wake up.

One of the most fascinating aspects of the journey was the ever-changing scenery outside of the window. From the mountainous terrain of China, a short nap later and the view changes to farmlands and villages among flat grasslands. Another nap, and you’ll see the barren, lifeless landscape of Mongolia as the train passes through the Gobi desert. And another nap, the Siberian taiga.

How much did it cost me?

$1175 for one month.

Note that this is the backpacker's cost — I slept on strangers' couches, I ate street food, and did everything as cheaply as I could.

That said, I did it to a reasonable extent. I bought souvenirs, paid for museums, and even watched the Mariinsky ballet. I had one hell of an amazing time, and for the same price, there's no reason why you can't.